Places to see

Daman

Southwest of Kathmandu, midway between the capital and Hetauda, Daman is situated 2322m (7616ft) above sea level. It claims to have the most spectacular outlook on the Himalaya - an unimpeded panorama of snowcaps from Dhaulagiri to Mt Everest.

If the mountains are in cloud when you arrive, you can stay at the ramshackle viewing tower and catch the peaks in the morning. If it's spring, check out the rhododendron forest on the southern side of the village. There are also great views over the Terai to India from here.


Kathmandu

Kathmandu is really two cities: a fabled capital of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples, and a frenetic sprawl of modern towers, mobbed by beggars and monkeys and smothered in diesel fumes. It simultaneously reeks of history and the encroaching wear and tear of the modern world.

When To Go
October-November, the start of the dry season, is probably the best time of year to visit Kathmandu: the weather is balmy, the air is clean, visibility is perfect and the countryside is lush and green following the monsoon. February-April, the tail end of the dry season is the second-best time to visit: visibility is not so good because of dust, but the weather is warm and many of Nepal's wonderful wild flowers are in bloom. In December and January, the views are crystal clear, but it can be chilly in the evenings: few of the cheaper hotels in Kathmandu have any heating and most travellers stay out in the warmth of Thamel's bars and restaurants until late and then rush home and dive under the blankets. The rest of the year is fairly unpleasant for travelling: May and early June are generally too hot and dusty for comfort, and the monsoon from mid-June to September obscures the mountains in cloud and turns trails and roads to mud. You'll probably find you spend most of the time indoors with a book while the rain thunders down outside.

Pokhara

Imagine a perfect, snow-capped mountain buffeted by icy Himalayan winds. Imagine a millpond calm lake reflecting the snowy peaks. Now imagine a village on the shore, thronged by travellers and reverberating to the sound of 'Om Mani Padme Hum' wafting from shops selling prayer flags, carpets, masks, singing bowls and CDs of Buddhist mantras. That's Pokhara.


fast facts
Full Name
Pokhara


Area
56 sq km

22 sq miles

Population
171,000

Time Zone
GMT/UTC +5.45 ()

Languages
Nepali (official)

More than a hundred languages are registered as mother tongues in Nepal.

Currency
Nepali Rupee (Rs)


Bodhnath
religious/spiritual

This is Nepal's most famous Buddhist monument, a shimmering white stupa topped by a towering golden spire and watched over by the eyes of the Buddha. Thousands of multi-coloured prayer flags flutter overhead and hordes of pilgrims flock here daily to perform the ceremonial circumnavigation of the shrine.

Bodhnath is one of those places that has a tangible spiritual energy. Tibetan pilgrims come here from across Nepal and some measure out the distance around the stupa with their own bodies, throwing themselves to the ground before the stupa in the ultimate act of ritual prostration. Many of the pilgrims are refugees from Tibet and the surrounding shops are crammed with Tibetan antiques and essential household items for Tibetan Buddhists.



Dakshinkali
religious/spiritual ; macabre

At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese visitors journey here to satisfy her bloodlust.

They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly dispatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.



Hanuman Dhoka (Old Royal Palace)
castle

The old royal palace is a part of Durbar Square, which remains the traditional heart of the old town and a spectacular example of traditional architecture. The king no longer lives here - the royal family moved to Narayanhiti more than a century ago - and the 1934 earthquake damaged the complex, but it remains a fascinating place to explore.

The western part of the palace, overlooking Durbar Square, is home to an interesting museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan's successful putsch against the Ranas. Wander inside and you get an eerie insight into his life: lots of personal effects, extensive photos and newspaper clippings and magnificent furniture and knick-knackery



Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
national park

Tel: 025 530897 (info)
This rarely-visited reserve is a great place to escape the crowds for a few days and do some animal- and bird spotting. Water-bird species outnumber tourists 400:1, and the reserve is home to the last surviving population of wild arna (water buffalo), various deer, nilgai, mugger crocodiles and Gangetic dolphins.


Royal Chitwan National Park
national park

Royal Chitwan National Park provides one of the finest wildlife experiences in Asia. While you'd have to be lucky to see one of the tigers or leopards, an elephant safari is an unforgettable experience and you are almost certain to see rhinos, deer, monkeys and numerous bird species, as well as the jumbo underneath you!